But there’s another thing to look out for that can have the same disastrous effect on your retirement plans - Uncle Sam.

Most of us do our retirement investing with the goal of accumulating as much money in our retirement savings account as possible. When we think about taxes and our retirement investments, we generally are thinking only about whether or not we should invest with “pre-tax” dollars, use “tax-free” investments and so forth. We figure that later, when we start drawing on our retirement investments, we’ll worry about the taxes then and that, somehow, it won’t be a big deal because we supposedly won’t be in as high a tax bracket.

The truth, though, is that, without properly planning our retirement investing planning, Uncle Sam could take as much as 90% of your retirement funds!

As an example, once you reach 70 1/2, you have to begin withdrawing required minimum distributions from your retirement plan. If you don’t, you’ll have to pay a 50% penalty tax on any part of the required minimum distribution that you don’t withdraw.

If you’re still working, however, you can delay beginning your required minimum distributions until you do retire. (There are two exceptions, however. If you own at least 5% of the company or if your plan is an IRA, you have to begin taking your required minimum distribution even if you’re still working.)
Also, be aware that the payments you receive from ordinary retirement funds are taxed at regular income tax rates upon withdrawal. There’s no special ‘retirement rate’.

These payments are added to your total annual income and then taxed at the rate that applies to your income tax bracket. So, if you received a salary or earned significant income from sources other than your retirement plan, your retirement plan distributions may actually put you in a higher tax bracket than when you were simply working.

Then there is the so-called Death Tax. That is the taxes on your retirement investments that will apply should you die. They could eat up a huge portion of what you intended to leave to your heirs. One common solution nowadays is to buy a life insurance policy that will offset the estate taxes that will be charged on your Individual Retirement Account or IRA.

For many people, your tax situation in retirement could actually be more complicated than it was while you were working. And, if you’re like most people, you haven’t even thought about it. So start thinking. Consult with a professional. It’s money well spent, and if you plan to leave any serious amount of money to your heirs, they will appreciate your thoughtfulness and the fact that more money will pass to them and less will go to Uncle Sam.

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401(a) plans, also called Teacher Incentive and Teacher Matching plans, are designed specifically for school employees.

The rules covering 401(a) plans vary from state to state and can vary within a school district so that, say, teachers get one benefit while custodians or paraprofessionals can get quite a different one. Distributions can take several forms, including lump sum, rollover or an annuity type payment.

If you change jobs, you have the flexibility to consolidate your savings in another public sector employer’s 401(a) plan or 401(k) plan, a tax-sheltered 403(b) annuity plan, a 457 plan, or a traditional Individual Retirement Account or IRA.

Probably the 401(a) most people are familiar with is from TIAA-CREF. Fidelity is another major player.

403(b) plans are very similar to a 401(k) plan. The biggest difference is who is eligible to participate. While a 401(k) plan covers private-sector workers, only employees of public schools and 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organizations can participate in a 403(b) plan.

Also, unlike the 401(k), 403(b) plan members can’t invest in individual stocks. They have money taken out of their paychecks on a pretax basis, which is then handled by a financial institution chosen by their employer. Like in a 401(k) plan, the money grows tax-deferred until retirement and is then taxed as ordinary income when withdrawn.

Generally, the maximum contribution is $10,500 or 20% of salary, whichever is less, but they do allow for a catch-up in contributions. If you did not max out your contributions in previous years, you can contribute more than the maximum with certain annual and total restrictions.

You may have heard 403(b) plans referred to as Tax Deferred Annuities or Tax-Sheltered Annuities. Those names come from back when the only investment options offered were for annuities, but investment options have been expanded for decades to include mutual funds.

If you’re eligible, all these plans can make a worthwhile addition to your retirement investing options.

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The biggest downside to savings bonds has been that the interest rate has always been very low.  Often it’s not even kept us with inflation.  That’s why the Government introduced the Series I (for inflation) savings bond.

The interest on a Series I bond is divided into 2 parts.  There is a fixed rate that remains the same for the life of the bond.  In addition, there is an inflation-adjusted adder rate that changes every 6 months, based on the Consumer Price Index.

The US Treasury changes the fixed rate periodically, but once you’ve bought your Series I bond, it’s locked in.  Over the last 5 years, the fixed rate component has ranged from a high of 3.6% in 2000 to a low of 1% in 2004.

Series I bonds are worth taking a look at as part of your overall retirement savings plan, but you should also consider other alternatives.  The average rate for an insured 6-month CD is 4.69% when this is written.  You can check the current rate at Bankrate.com.  Since this is the average, some banks are obviously offering more and some less.  Our local bank is currently paying 4.4%.  Online, E-Loan’s bank is currently offering 5.5%. You can check out what they are currently offering here.  E-Loan

Series I bonds have some advantages.  They are exempt from state and local taxes, and you don’t have to pay federal taxes on the earnings until you cash in the bond.  On the other hand, unlike a 6-month CD, you must keep a Series I bond at least a year before you can cash it in.  Also if you cash in a Series I bond before you’ve had it at least 5 years, you won’t get the last 3 months interest.

You may be able to do better on interest at your local bank or online, but those rates aren’t guaranteed to adjust with inflation.  Check it out and compare.  In addition to federal tax deferred interest, there may be other things to consider.  Where you live and whether you must pay state and local income taxes can make a big difference.  So check with you tax advisor to see if adding Series I bonds to your retirement investments makes sense for you.

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While choosing a retirement investment plan might be fairly easy if you have a sole proprietorship that brings in a limited amount of income, the more successful your small business is, the more choices become available and the more variables you must consider which will affect your decision.

For example, you may have incorporated your business, you could have employees, or you could be making an awful lot of money (don’t we wish!). You could also have a job, in addition to your business, or be over 50. All these variables, plus more, can significantly affect what self-employed retirement investing plan is best for you.

For the self-employed, Keogh plans are the equivalent of big time corporate retirement plans, like the pension plans our parents counted on. Keogh’s can be set up either as profit-sharing plans or defined benefit pension plans

Annual contributions to a Keogh profit-sharing plan are based on a percentage of your self-employment income (or the salary you make as an employee of your own corporation) with a $44,000 cap on contributions.

On the other hand, if you choose a defined benefit pension plan, your contributions are based on your targeted retirement benefit. For example, if your goal is to get a $50,000 a year pension, your contributions will be based on what it will take to achieve that goal, including your income, your age, and the assumed return on your investments. (You can have a Keogh set up to give you as much as $175,000 a year.)

However, because you have a targeted goal, you have to contribute whatever it will take to achieve that goal. If you have a bad year, your contribution won’t decrease, no matter the effect on your income. The upside is that, if you haven’t done much retirement financial planning, are getting closer to retirement age, and are making really good money, the Keogh can be a way to catch up fast because it allows you to contribute so very much more to your retirement than any other retirement program.

Do keep in mind, though, that should you choose a Keogh and have employees, you will have to make contributions for them as well, which may affect the amount you’ll be able to set aside for yourself. So make sure you get professional advice before making your retirement investment planning choice.

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People with small or significantly variable self-employment earnings may be better off looking at retirement investment plans that also allow them the flexibility of whether or not to make a contribution at any given time.

For self-employed people in that situation, the best choices include SEPs and self-employed 401(k) plans.

A SEP (Simplified Employee Pension) lets you contribute up to 20% of your self-employment income (and that percentage increases to 25% of your salary if you’re an employee of your own corporation), up to a current maximum of $44,000 a year.

If you have employees, you can still have a SEP, and you can set up a SEP any time up to the time you file your taxes. In addition, you can vary the amount of contribution as needed since you are not locked into a specific contribution amount or percentage. This obviously can be a big plus if your income fluctuates

However, if you make a contribution for yourself, you have to make it for all your employees. Also, be aware that you can’t take out loans against your SEP.

On the other hand, a self-employed 401(k) plan - also called a solo and individual 401(k) - does allow loans to be taken out against it. Indeed, you can transfer your IRAs, regular 401(k), or any other pretax-retirement funds, whatever the amount, to your self-employed 401(k) account and then borrow from it.

However, self-employed 401(k) plans are only available if you have no employees, although they can be used for multiple owners, as well as for spouses who are employees.

Like the SEP, a self-employed 401(k) plan also allows annual contributions of up to $44,000. (By the way, maximum contributions for both SEP’s and self-employed 401(k)s can be affected by whether or not you participate in any other retirement plan. Check with your retirement investment planner or tax advisor before making your decision.)

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However, there are many tax-free self-employed retirement plan options available nowadays. For example:

Simplified employee pensions (SEP) let you contribute…and deduct…up to 20% of your self-employment earnings (25% if you’re an employee of your own corporation), up to $44,000 a year.

Keogh plans are a lot more elaborate, and can be either profit sharing or defined benefit pension plans. Keogh’s also allow tax-free contributions up to $44,000 a year for the profit-sharing option. Defined pension plan contributions have to be determined by an actuary and depend on your income, your target benefit (which can be up to $175,000 a year!), the number of years until your retirement and the anticipated investment returns. Obviously Keogh’s are more expensive to administer than other options.

An individual 401(k) plan lets you contribute up to 100% of the first $15,000 of your annual self-employment earnings/income (up $20,000 if you’ll be 50+ by the end of the year). In addition, you can also contribute and deduct another 25% of your salary (if you’re an employee of your own corporation) or 20% of your self-employment income.

And…if you want to put aside a little bit more and are willing to pay taxes now, rather than later, there’s always the Roth IRA in addition to whatever tax-free or tax deferred plan you’ve decided on. You’ll have to pay taxes on your Roth contributions, but your earnings will be tax-free! And, yes, you’ll only be able to contribute up to $4,000 a year ($8,000 if you’re married or $5,000/$9,000 if you’re 50+), but a Roth allows you to add to your retirement investing, and you’ll be able to withdraw all that Roth money when you retire and won’t have to pay a cent in taxes.

Not preparing for retirement when you’re self-employed is like not planning to pay the bills for your business. Sure, you can do it. But why? Think of all the trouble you’ll make for yourself. And just like all the other things you know you need to do for your business, the key is to get started as soon as possible.

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7. A home equity loan may be a better solution from your particular situation. Most states, with the notable exception of Texas, where I live, have made setting up a home equity line of credit simple. If you have enough equity in your house, and you have a good credit rating, you should consider a home equity loan. Unlike a loan from your retirement account, the interest you pay on a home equity loan is usually tax deductible.

8. There may also be special deals available that are better than a loan from your 401k account or a home equity loan. For example, at the time this is being written, several car companies are offering 0% financing for up to 60 months. If you qualify, this is a much better way to finance a new car that borrowing from your 401k account or using a home equity line of credit to buy a new car.

In conclusion, everyone’s situation is a little different. When you’re talking about $1,000’s of dollars and the impact of tax laws, it’s always best to get professional advice from an accountant or tax attorney. It may cost you $100 to $200 for a simple consultation, but it will be money well spent to find out what’s right for you and your situation.

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5. As the old saying goes “some restrictions apply.” Our friends in Congress and the IRS don’t want this to be too good a deal, even if it’s our own money. After all, Congress thinks they did us a really big favor with 401k accounts by making it easier to save for retirement. Maybe they did, but like many good deals, this one comes with strings attached. First there’s the $50,000 limit. Even if your have $200,000 in your 401k account, and the general rule is you can borrow up to 50% of your 401k account balance, you are limited to borrowing $50,000 at any one time. In addition most plans usually limit the number of loans you can have at any one time to 1 or 2. For example, if you borrow 50% of your 401k account balance of $50,000 on a 5 year loan, and the $25,000 left in your account triples over the next 3 years from savings and increases in the value of the investment to $75,000, you cannot borrow another $37,500. First you are limited to a total outstanding balance of $50,000. Second, if your plan restricts you to 1 loan at a time, you will not be about the borrow 50% of the new value in your account until the first loan is paid off. Even if your plan allows for 2 loans at a time, most plans have another restriction that says the amount you can borrow on the second loan will be reduced by the highest outstanding balance on the first loan during the previous 12 months.

6. If you switch to a new company, you may have to pay off your loan immediately. In many cases, this can be avoided by rolling over your 401k account, but if you can’t do that, the outstanding balance of your loan will be considered an “early distribution” from you retirement savings account and will be deducted from what you have available. You won’t have to pay the money back, but you will have to pay taxes on the balance of the loan as ordinary income. And if you’re less than 59 ½ yeas old, you will also have to pay a 10% early withdrawal penalty.

Thinking about paying extra taxes is stressful, so we’ll end here today. Tomorrow, I’ll post 2 other reasons to think twice about borrowing against your retirement account.

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Most of us have our 401k account or IRA in a plan that allows us to borrow a portion of the money. This can be a great idea and a ready source of money, but there are positives and negatives to borrowing from your retirement savings account. Here’s a list of 8 things to consider before taking out a loan from your retirement account. Since the list is long, I’ll post it over 4 days. Let’s start with 4 good reasons:

1. Most plans allow you to borrow up to 50% of the vested balance in your account, up to $50,000.

2. Interest rates are usually competitive and are often lower than your could get from a bank on a signature loan. Borrowing your own money is not technically a signature loan, because you are pledging the money in the account to back up the loan, but because it’s so quick and simple, it’s more like getting a signature loan on a note at the bank than the longer process of pledging assets for a loan guarantee.

3. Because your are borrowing your own money, you don’t have to “qualify” for a loan, like you would for a signature or other loan from a bank, so you don’t have to worry about your credit rating.

4. Since you’re borrowing your own money, the interest you pay on the loan goes back into your own pocket and not the banker’s, since it goes into your account. If your 401k account is primarily invested in your company stock or even in a mutual fund that has a low or falling rate of return at the moment, you might actually earn more money from the interest you pay on your loan, even if it’s only 5 or 6%.

So – 4 good reasons to consider borrowing from your retirement account when you need some extra money. Tomorrow, we’ll look at 2 reasons you might want to reconsider.

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