401(a) plans, also called Teacher Incentive and Teacher Matching plans, are designed specifically for school employees.

The rules covering 401(a) plans vary from state to state and can vary within a school district so that, say, teachers get one benefit while custodians or paraprofessionals can get quite a different one. Distributions can take several forms, including lump sum, rollover or an annuity type payment.

If you change jobs, you have the flexibility to consolidate your savings in another public sector employer’s 401(a) plan or 401(k) plan, a tax-sheltered 403(b) annuity plan, a 457 plan, or a traditional Individual Retirement Account or IRA.

Probably the 401(a) most people are familiar with is from TIAA-CREF. Fidelity is another major player.

403(b) plans are very similar to a 401(k) plan. The biggest difference is who is eligible to participate. While a 401(k) plan covers private-sector workers, only employees of public schools and 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organizations can participate in a 403(b) plan.

Also, unlike the 401(k), 403(b) plan members can’t invest in individual stocks. They have money taken out of their paychecks on a pretax basis, which is then handled by a financial institution chosen by their employer. Like in a 401(k) plan, the money grows tax-deferred until retirement and is then taxed as ordinary income when withdrawn.

Generally, the maximum contribution is $10,500 or 20% of salary, whichever is less, but they do allow for a catch-up in contributions. If you did not max out your contributions in previous years, you can contribute more than the maximum with certain annual and total restrictions.

You may have heard 403(b) plans referred to as Tax Deferred Annuities or Tax-Sheltered Annuities. Those names come from back when the only investment options offered were for annuities, but investment options have been expanded for decades to include mutual funds.

If you’re eligible, all these plans can make a worthwhile addition to your retirement investing options.

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7. A home equity loan may be a better solution from your particular situation. Most states, with the notable exception of Texas, where I live, have made setting up a home equity line of credit simple. If you have enough equity in your house, and you have a good credit rating, you should consider a home equity loan. Unlike a loan from your retirement account, the interest you pay on a home equity loan is usually tax deductible.

8. There may also be special deals available that are better than a loan from your 401k account or a home equity loan. For example, at the time this is being written, several car companies are offering 0% financing for up to 60 months. If you qualify, this is a much better way to finance a new car that borrowing from your 401k account or using a home equity line of credit to buy a new car.

In conclusion, everyone’s situation is a little different. When you’re talking about $1,000’s of dollars and the impact of tax laws, it’s always best to get professional advice from an accountant or tax attorney. It may cost you $100 to $200 for a simple consultation, but it will be money well spent to find out what’s right for you and your situation.

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Most of us have our 401k account or IRA in a plan that allows us to borrow a portion of the money. This can be a great idea and a ready source of money, but there are positives and negatives to borrowing from your retirement savings account. Here’s a list of 8 things to consider before taking out a loan from your retirement account. Since the list is long, I’ll post it over 4 days. Let’s start with 4 good reasons:

1. Most plans allow you to borrow up to 50% of the vested balance in your account, up to $50,000.

2. Interest rates are usually competitive and are often lower than your could get from a bank on a signature loan. Borrowing your own money is not technically a signature loan, because you are pledging the money in the account to back up the loan, but because it’s so quick and simple, it’s more like getting a signature loan on a note at the bank than the longer process of pledging assets for a loan guarantee.

3. Because your are borrowing your own money, you don’t have to “qualify” for a loan, like you would for a signature or other loan from a bank, so you don’t have to worry about your credit rating.

4. Since you’re borrowing your own money, the interest you pay on the loan goes back into your own pocket and not the banker’s, since it goes into your account. If your 401k account is primarily invested in your company stock or even in a mutual fund that has a low or falling rate of return at the moment, you might actually earn more money from the interest you pay on your loan, even if it’s only 5 or 6%.

So – 4 good reasons to consider borrowing from your retirement account when you need some extra money. Tomorrow, we’ll look at 2 reasons you might want to reconsider.

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In these steps, I’ve kept the math in the example simple to make the process easy to follow. Some folks have written entire books on this subject, and they make excellent reading when you’re ready to get into the process in detail. First step through the process in this simple example and then go into greater detail by doing a little research on your own when you are ready to set up your own retirement savings plan. The important point is - don’t delay getting started until you understand every complex twist and turn of the tax laws and all the investment options. That’s what the pro’s are for. Begin by understanding the basics and then get started. As a friend of mine says about any worthwhile project “It’s more important to get it going than to get it perfect”. So in the famous words of Nike - “just do it”.

Step 1 - Determine how much income you will need to have a comfortable retirement lifestyle. The old rule of thumb many investment advisors recommended was 80% of your current income. However, that’s a very general guideline. You really need to examine your own situation for a better number. Is your home paid for, or will it be paid for when you retire? Then you won’t need money to cover a mortgage payment. If you and your spouse are driving 2 cars now, will you cut back to one car? That’s one less car to maintain or eventually replace. If you currently live in a large house, will you be moving to a smaller house? That’s less for utilities, and the proceeds from the sale of the larger house can go into your retirement account. You’ll also have to factor in that you will have new expenses you didn’t have before. You may need to buy more medicines as you get older. If you have a health plan from your current employer, your share of the cost may go up. You will also probably want to buy Medicare insurance to cover your share of medical costs not covered by Medicare.

Step 2 - Determine what rate of return you believe you can get on your retirement savings. There are many references out there on what rate of return to use for retirement planning. Let’s try to keep the math simple. According to a research report prepared for the Social Security Advisory Board in 2001, the average real rate of return for stocks from 1946 to 1998 was 7.8% after inflation. That seems like a good time period to use because it avoids the Internet boom and bust between 1998 and 2002. This is 7.8% in real, not inflated dollars.

Of course, 7.8% is truly an average over time. In some years the stock market has done very well. In other years, it has taken a big slide. It can be very hard to predict a rate of return over a short period of time. So for the sake of simplicity, let’s round the 7.8% up to 8%. For your own planning, if you want to be more conservative, you can always use an even lower rate.

Tomorrow in Part 2, we’ll walk through some simple calculation to determine how much you need to save to provide the monthly income you need.

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